KRULL magazine’s go-to skin guru Nybia Ezwan Snowden breaks down the skin game playbook.

Recounting the many conversations I’ve shared with women over the years,  skincare woes are universal. Some skin is too oily. Some too dry. There are age spots to deal with. Wrinkles. Acne. Blemishes. It goes on and on.  But the good news is, no matter how bad it gets, and no matter how hard you’ve tried and failed, I believe great skin is attainable.  The trick is, you have to be disciplined about it. Address your cosmetic concerns with diligence and patience.

PRODUCT, PRODUCT, PRODUCT?

A recurring challenge for women who want great skin is finding the right products. More often than not, we’ll spare no expense on skin creams, potions and serums, without a clue about their actual function, efficacy or what they actually target.  Instead of researching the intended function of products, we tend to experiment with products based on word of mouth recommendations from people we know. Has your BFF or plus one ever suggested something they used, or heard about that just doesn’t work?
When the results are inert, minimal, or downright unfavorable, let me be the first to admit, I, like many other women out there have simply given up.

TRIED AND TRUE SKIN-TRIFECTA

The path to great skin starts with three very basic ideas. CLEANSE-TONE-MOISTURIZE. These are the basics. This is where you start.  It’s not flashy. It’s not dramatic. It’s just common sense. The rock stars of skin care come later. But if you don’t  keep your skin clean, tone it up and keep it moisturized you may be wasting your time searching for the perfect product. These are the first weapons in your beauty arsenal.

HEALTHY LIFESTYLE IS CRITICAL

Another precursor to great skin is healthy lifestyle. Treating your skin is like feeding your body: health, balance, and nutrition are necessary for optimal results.  And like all things that matter most, what we put in, is what we get out. So why wouldn’t the same mantra apply to your skin?

And while we’re on the subject: Truth to tell, there are a couple other factors about your skin that are  critical:
#1 – if not cared for early on and regularly, skin will add years and reflect overall health
#2 – The changes caused by neglecting your skin will be with you forever.

IT’S TIME TO BRING YOUR A-GAME

You may be asking yourself “who has the time to apply goop to their skin everyday?”  I’m here to answer, you do! A big misconception about aging is that everyone thinks they will age like grandma. I know, the only thing my grandma used was Ponds and her skin still looks fabulous. But ladies let me tell you, here and now is a different time. There are more carcinogens in the environment today accelerating the aging process compared to 30 years ago. What does this mean to you?  Different times call for different strategies.

Like it or not, your skin ages daily due to free radicals (in the air), pollution, or UV damage. The pile up of carcinogens on the skin’s surface can wreak havoc for years to come and can be quite alarming. Not to mention the gradual breakdown of collagen, enlarged pores and emerging discoloration. It seems that one day you wake up, catch a glimpse in the mirror and gasp, asking yourself, ”what happened?!”
The struggle is real.

Buying endless products to fill your cabinets is not the answer. The antidote for aging gracefully is arming yourself with the best age-fighting, complexion-blending arsenal that fits your budget and lifestyle. A combination approach to refresh, renew and smooth your skin is critical to achieving your best skin yet. Brighter more youthful skin is attainable for every skin-type and at any age. Consider your lifestyle and level of commitment.  Here’s how you start changing your skin game!

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT PRODUCTS:

THE FACTS

– Over-the-counter products (from local convenience stores) contain minimal concentrations of active ingredients that are not as effective and take longer to achieve desired results due to government regulations.

– Medical grade products contain more active ingredients at higher concentrations that will accelerate the process of achieving desired results.

THE GAME CHANGERS

ANTIOXIDANTS– The Most Super-Charged Multi-Taskers”

• VITAMIN C (L-Ascorbic Acid)-
One of the most abundant and powerful antioxidants in skincare products. It protects at the surface to cellular level from oxidative stress, neutralizing free radicals that would otherwise destroy skin cells and the components within them. Studies show that it facilitates cellular repair, synthesizes collagen and reduces hyperpigmentation while also improving tone and texture.

• FERULIC ACID – Found in the cell walls of plants. It’s usually combined with Vitamin C serums, preventing oxidative stress while enhancing the stability of vitamin C and doubling the antioxidant power.

• RESVERATROL – Commonly found in grapes and red wine, when used topically it protects against oxidative stress and UVB damage.

EXFOLIANTS

THE RETINOIDS – The Best “I Don’t Want To Age Product”
Derivative of vitamin A also known by its pharmaceutical name, Tretinoin has a tendency to show up everywhere from prescription creams to over the counter wrinkle reducers. Namely, it works as an exfoliant sloughing dead skin cells and increasing cell turnover to produce new ones. It also acts to refine texture by smoothing fine lines and wrinkles, shrinking pore size, and preventing acne breakouts.

THE ACIDS – “Do It All Dull Skin Eliminators”
• AHA’s (GLYCOL, LACTIC, TARTARIC)- This trio is usually combined: glycolic lifts the glue that holds dead discolored skin cells on the surface, lactic reduces acne by exfoliating, tartaric renews and brightens.

• SALICYLIC (Beta hydroxy acid)- Derived from willow bark, salicylic is a multi-functioning ingredient that has the ability to penetrate inside the pore to exfoliate, prevent acne, and calm inflammation.

FACE BRIGHTENERS

• HYDROQUINONE – Generally the gold-standard for serious discoloration, hydroquinone is a chemically based product that acts on tyrosinase (the enzyme that controls the production of melanin) to prevent the excess melanin deposits in the skin. Lightens unrelenting discoloration.
• KOJIC ACID – Skin brightener naturally derived from mushroom fungi, acts by inhibiting tyrosinase thereby preventing discoloration.
• PAPAIN – An enzyme derived from papayas, has an increased vitamin A content that contains potent, effective exfoliating properties that facilitate and preserve a healthy complexion. It also helps to improve hyperpigmentation.

MOISTURIZERS

Moisture is essential to creating a healthy balanced skin and more youthful complexion. From dry to oily, the key is finding the right formulation and consistency for your skin type.

• HYALURONIC ACID -“Most Effective Moisture Enhancer”
An ultra-lightweight ingredient that is produced by our cells with a unique capability to retain up to 1000x its weight in water, yielding supple, more hydrated skin.  It assists in slowing the signs of aging by plumping due to the intense hydration. It’s ideal for all skin types.

• ROSE WATER – “Great Skin Soother”
A powerful yet gentle ingredient that’s also great for hydration. While refreshing and cleansing the surface, it contains anti-inflammatory abilities by reducing redness, and soothing irritated skin.

by NYBIA EZWAN SNOWDEN

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photography ANDREA DAVIS KRONLUND

styling RL PEARSALL

grooming EMELIE WOOD OLSSON

model JOSEFINE YOHANNES

illustration IO_DESIGNSTUDIO